Cellar Selections
93 Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 1998
A dark, deliciously rich and complex youngster, brimming with layers of currant, blackberry, plum, mineral, spice, chocolate and cedar. Finished with a gush of flavors, yet maintains its finesse and grace. Best from 2002 through 2012.
|
|
1999 Chardonnay Ovation
Pale straw hue. Forward, spicy aromas. Ripe, nicely balanced flavors of crisp citrus notes, apple, apricot, hints of clove and spicy, smoky oak. Long elegant finish with a nice mineral quality. Complex and lovely. Score: 91.
|
|
Wine: Michael Franz
Destination: St. Helena
93 Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 1998
Critics naturally develop favorites as we try to distinguish successes from mediocrities. Knowing this, people often ask me which wineries to visit when they head to the Napa Valley, and for years my list has been headed by Joseph Phelps Vineyards in St. Helena, Calif.
I send people there less because the place is pretty and the wines are excellent than because there is so much to be learned from the way winemaking is approached there. The enterprise is informed by a rare spirit of humility and introspection that has made it one of America's most innovative wineries, and this has much to do with winemaker Craig Williams, now celebrating his 25th year at Phelps . . .
[But] neither Williams nor Phelps are content to rest on their laurels, and today their initiatives include a new vineyard near the coast in Sonoma, where they hope to make great Pinot Noir. Williams is guiding the design of a winery for that site in his new role as vice president and director of winemaking, having entrusted day-to-day winemaking to Sarah Gott. Working with vineyard manager Bulmaro Montes, Williams is also experimenting with organic and biodynamic farming. He looks forward to a future in which vintners will lead the entire agricultural community toward environmentally friendly practices, and, in light of the pattern established by Williams and his colleagues during the past 25 years, a role in the vanguard of that effort seems almost assured.
|
|
Back to Top
Next News Story
|
|
