General Winery News:
Craig Williams celebrates twenty-five years
of winemaking at Joseph Phelps Vineyards
Craig Williams, winemaker and executive vice-president for Joseph Phelps Vineyards, is celebrating his 25th anniversary with the company this year, and for much of that time has been a guiding force behind the research and development programs at JPV. He probably wouldn't admit that, as his unassuming manner usually cedes the spotlight to others, but in fact Craig is one of California's premier winemakers with an impressive track record of success.
Craig was hired at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in 1976 at the age of 26 to assist winemaker Walter Schug. He took over red winemaking in 1980, and when Walter left to start his own winery prior to the '83 harvest, Craig was officially promoted to winemaker in charge of all wine production.
In those early days Craig describes himself as being on a steep learning curve, both as a student of winemaking and grapegrowing, with very little known about the relationship between region and wine quality. With a degree from U.C. Davis in fermentation science, Craig was well educated in the technology of winemaking but had little experience in analyzing less pragmatic data. He sees his greatest accomplishment as having bridged that gap.
"It seems so obvious now to say that wine quality is directly related to where and how the grapes are grown, but believe me, in the late seventies and early eighties the idea was revolutionary, at least in this country. Europe of course had been aware of it for centuries. I felt strongly that we needed to be investing in Cabernet vineyards, and Joe agreed. In 1983 he bought
35 acres on Manley Lane in the Rutherford benchlands. The importance of that purchase was first observed with the 1989 Insignia, which included 79% Manley Lane fruit as part of the blend and raised the wine to a new level of quality."
Joe subsequently purchased 35 acres in the Stag's Leap District in 1983, another 13 acres contiguous to the Stag's Leap property in 1986, and in 1997 signed a long-term lease with the Barboza family for 18 acres, also in Stag's Leap. This was in addition to the Backus vineyard in Oakville, which Joe had leased in 1975. At that time the 45 acre parcel had 6.75 acres planted to vines, but in December of 1996 Joe purchased the property outright and developed additional vineyards which today total 21 acres.
From its humble beginnings in 1973, when 2900 cases of Cab-ernet Sauvignon were produced from fruit purchased from an independent grower, today JPV's portfolio includes 140 acres of estate-owned (or leased) Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
And this, Craig sees, as his greatest contribution, although he is quick to qualify it. "Our success has been due to the early recognition of the importance of regionality in the brand, which allowed us to be quality driven rather than market driven. I was perhaps the spark which ignited this concept, but without Joe Phelps' innovative thinking, Bulmaro Montes's determination to improve vineyard practices, and Tom Shelton's commitment to excellence in the marketplace, we would not be where we are today. This has definitely been a team effort."
There's no question that the effort has paid off, as demonstrated by the success of Insignia, a blend which is considered a reference point for Bordelais varieties grown in California. This success is directly attributable to JPV's early recognition of and investment in prime vineyard land that made possible a new level of quality in Insignia at production levels similar to the great growths of Bordeaux.
Not content to rest on his laurels, however, Craig is once again branching out into unexplored territory. A new vineyard project in Sonoma County has him overseeing the production of 18,000 cases of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Also in the developmental stage is a 100 acre Cabernet vineyard in south Napa.
When asked what he envisions giving him personal satisfaction in the years to come, his wish list is very specific: "Seeing the Sonoma project come to fruition and be successful; helping guide the company during this phase of vineyard development in Napa; and improving farming practices so that we not only insure quality in the vineyards, but are good environmental stewards as well."
"Perhaps most important to me though is an old lesson from my Boy Scout days: when I am an old man and have to turn the keys over, I'd like to be perceived as having left this place better than when I found it." There seems little doubt that this will be the least of his accomplishments.
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