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Special Report:

Philippe Pessereau & Bulmaro Montes

study controversial farming methods on trip

to France

In May of this year, Philippe Pessereau, JPV's viticulturist, and Bulmaro Montes, JPV's vineyard manager, traveled to Europe to visit vintners in the Loire Valley and Burgundy regions of France. Winemaker Craig Williams joined them in Burgundy as they visited domaines in Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée, Nuits St. Georges, Puligny Montrachet, and others. Philippe, a French native, acted as translator.

The purpose of the trip was two-fold: to visit Burgundy producers, and to gather information on biodynamic farming. JPV is currently working with Alan York, a Mendocino County-based consultant who applies biodynamic farming principles to California vineyards, and Philippe was especially interested in speaking with French vintners on the subject.
Bulmaro Montes (left) in the Condrieu vineyard of Yves Cuilleron (right), with the Rhône River flowing behind them.
Biodynamic farming was invented in 1924 by Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian philosopher, scientist and artist who listened to farmers complain for years about poor crop quality. Whether trying to grow cereals, grains, row crops or vegetable gardens, farmers wanted to increase plant health and crop vitality. When Steiner's principles of biodynamic farming were applied, the results were dramatic, particularly in years when severe weather conditions would have otherwise adverselyaffected the crop.

Yet Steiner's theories have never gained widespread acceptance and are often a source of controversy. Philippe found vintners in France reluctant to talk aboutbiodynamic farming, even though they were applying many of its principles. And their reluctance is not surprising.

When Steiner's unorthodox farming methods are described, some find them simplistic, like something out of the Farmer's Almanac. Others apply a more mystical interpretation.

Biodynamic Farming -- Mysticism or Science?

The foundation of biodynamic agriculture is three-pronged. Its based on the application of horn manure, horn silica and compost.

Horn manure: A cow horn is hollowed out and filled with cow manure. It is then buried in the field or vineyard at the fall equinox, and dug up during the spring equinox. It is thought that the movement of the moon and sun energizes the preparation. The manure is then taken out of the horn and placed in special clay jars for storage. A small amount is extracted from the jar, mixed with water, and sprayed on the ground to enliven the soil. One cow horn is sufficient to treat two acres and foster humus formation.

Horn silica: Often called feldspar, silica is also placed in a cow horn and buried in the field, but this time it is buried during the spring equinox and dug up at the fall equinox. It is thought to enhance plant growth through photosynthesis

Compost: The compost is produced by combining green plant tissue, pomace (in vineyards), hay and cow manure. To control and enhance the composting process, biodynamic preparations are used during the making of the compost pile.

Philippe took this picture of a biodynamic farming experiment in Meursault. After transplant, these plants received an application of horn manure (right side). The left side was grown in regular, untreated soil. The clear difference between the two lends credence to Steiner's theories.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards has set aside 15 acres on the home ranch in Spring Valley for biodynamic research. In addition to the application of cow horn manure, horn silica and compost, biodynamic agriculture precludes the use of any fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides. So far we are still at the very beginning stages of the project, but stay tuned for further developments.

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