Bringing Home Tradition

Old world farming practices offer insight to

winegrowing in Freestone

By Theresa Heredia
February, 2008

A Burgundian grape-grower uses a horse-drawn plow to minimize soil compaction.

The typical view in Burgundy this time of year is that of sunlight filtered through crisp February air, random chimneys of smoke from the burning of canes, and white worker vans or “camions” scattered alongside the roads. The smell is alluring and intoxicating, like the smell of fresh coffee brewing while you are still warm inside your camp tent at 6:00 a.m. It draws you out of hibernation despite the chill in the air.

This is the time to observe vine pruning, burning of canes, horse plowing and biodynamic applications such as eucalyptus-infused clay to combat infection after vine cuts have been made.

A typical example of cordon pruning in Burgundy.

Because many producers in this part of France have just tiny parcels to farm, each vine is often treated independently. Some are single cane pruned and some have very old unilateral cordon arms with only three to five spurs or “bearing units,” which will produce grapes in 2008. A spur is the basal portion of a cane that is left behind to produce shoots and fruit for the next season.

In Freestone, due to differences in soil composition, vine age, lower density spacing and dryer climatic conditions during the growing season, bilateral cordon and cane pruning are well adapted to the varieties of this region. These vines would in theory produce twice as much fruit as a unilateral cordon arm or a single cane.

This illustrates the difference between old Burgundy vines as compared to young California vines. These older vines, with roots embedded in rocky, limestone soil effectively produce a smaller, more concentrated crop on a per vine basis. This also explains why many wines from this region of the world are so limited and highly regarded.

The younger, adolescent vines in Freestone with roots embedded in soft, sandy soil can become vigorous and require more “bearing units” for overall vine balance and optimal fruit quality.

As history continues to teach us lessons, many small Burgundian producers are rediscovering the benefits of biodynamic and traditional farming practices. Horse plowing is being used to minimize soil compaction due to the overuse of farming equipment, and to better serve the environment. Cultivation by horse is considered practical, qualitative and respectful of the land. The anticipated result is reinvigoration of the terroir: the soil and vines that have become tired from excessive mechanization will renew to yield a product purely expressive of the site.

Theresa cleaning up vines after pruning.

[Ed. Note: Theresa Heredia is Associate Winemaker for Freestone and traveled to Burgundy for a brief pruning apprenticeship.]